Behind the Menu | Trip to Somalia set table for Hoyo's Kitchen, a Columbus, Ohio restaurant inspired by Somali mother's cooking

Admin · January 7, 2015

Before graduating from Ohio State University in the spring, Abdilahi Hassan promised himself that he would visit Somalia and, upon his return, start his own business.The 26-year-old made good on both vows. During the summer, he took his first trip to Somalia, where he spent a little more than a month traveling with his grandparents, who emigrated from the African nation.And in November, he opened Hoyo’s Kitchen, a casual restaurant off E. Dublin-Granville Road with food inspired by his mother’s cooking. (The name itself is a reminder of that: Hoyo is the Somali word formom.)The recipes are a combination of those from Hassan’s mother, Hayat Dalmar, and Halimo Alibair, the longtime chef of Solay Bistro, the previous tenant of the strip-mall space.Hassan wants his restaurant to be a gateway into the cuisine with which he grew up. He is hoping that Hoyo seems authentic for Somali regulars and welcoming for newcomers.The beauty of Somali food is that something is bound to seem familiar, regardless of how adventurous of an eater you are. Sambusa (one for $1.25 or 10 for $10) — a flaky, triangle-shaped pastry filled with a choice of ground beef or lamb with onions and garlic, or potatoes and peas — are reminiscent of Indian samosas. Bajiya (five for $3) are akin to falafel.The Somali version is a deliciously aromatic bean mash that has been fried until just crisp on the outside and moist inside.Mostly, food may be ordered one of two ways: as a combo plate ($11 for meat with a drink; $10 for vegetarian) or a bowl ($8 for meat with a drink; $7 for vegetarian). The meat combo includes a choice of a main and two side dishes, while the bowl offers a choice of one side.For vegetarian diners, Hoyo’s has a choice of three sides paired with a choice of Somali flatbreads (including sour injera and thin, pancakelike canjeero, which is a slightly sweeter version of its Ethiopian counterpart), or one side for the bowl.For omnivores, Hoyo’s offers a combo plate with goat, the most authentic meat on the menu. Chunks of soft goat meat are poached in house seasonings and tossed with a traditional Somali sauce (think of a light barbecue spiked with berbere).House-made hot sauces are available to add kick. The sauce with fenugreek and vinegar adds a punch to seafood dishes.The goat is good paired with fata muus, a soft, sweet mixture of flatbread, bananas and honey made savory with a touch of butter.Hoyo’s has a strong choice of vegetarian options. Don’t pass on the daal soup, which is really more of a hearty, aromatic stew.Hoyo’s can be confusing. Customers have the choice to order at the counter at the back of the restaurant or to grab a table and be waited upon.The former is the way Hassan wanted to set up the service, but the latter is customary in the Somali culture.And, although he says the staff is working on picking up the pace of service, it is best to go when you have time to sit back and enjoy the meal and company.While waiting, diners should have time to explore the coffee-shop menu that features a variety of styles of Somali coffees, teas and pastries.In the works is a breakfast menu — a tribute to Hassan’s favorite meal — which will include a dish to rival pancakes.5786 Columbus Square Contact: 614-899-8800 Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily Source: http://www.dispatch.com/