Daring The Devil: A Tours Of War-torn Somalia

[Somali philosopher]

People familiar with conflict in the great lakes region should have read Gen. Romeo Dallaire’s book ‘Shaking Hands With The Devil’, a real life experience of what transpired in the 1994 Rwanda genocide. When one steps foot in Somalia, they get a feeling that Romeo’s works was some kind of prophesy about what Uganda People’s Defence Forces (UPDF) were to face in Somalia.

Red pepper investigative reporter Dalton Kaweesa toured the war torn Horn of Africa recently with the UPDF. He reveals a chilling, intriguing and nerve taunting encounter of rubbing shoulders with the devil.

The trip

On April 28th Sunday afternoon, I hoped to have an unusual long sleep since earlier in the day, I had successfully competed (not just participating like many of my colleagues including News Editor, Ben Byarabaha) in the Jinja Harred 10km marathon.

But as I lumbered to my bed, around 8:00 pm, a familiar voiced was on the other side of the phone.

“Dalton, you are set for Somalia at 3:30am. The van will pick you from Constitutional Square. So better prepare,” a familiar voice from the office of the army spokesperson beckoned.

Butterflies run through my stomach, the trip was scary as it was exciting to go. I must admit, I have reported on war fronts, from Kony in Gulu to Central African Republic (CAR) but the question of going to a place where you can never tell which direction the sniper bullet would come from, was completely out of the question. Not to go would not only be cowardice but an opportunity, a new experience, trust and a channel of understanding Somalia dynamics within lost.

The Bumpy Flight

The journey which is around slightly four hours is an eventful, except the noise emitted by the chopper which pounds the hardest of wax in one’s ears.

At exactly 11:00pm we touched Mogadishu Airport which is heavily guarded by Ugandan led Amisom forces and I knew something was evidently strange. As soon as we landed, in a movie-like commando style, we were ushered into armoured vehicles and driven off at break-neck speed.

It is then that it dawned on me that this is a war region. When the only lady in our company screamed about her luggage and toiletry, she was assured how her property would find her wherever she was being led.

This was the practical preamble to what sort of life we were to endure for the next five days in Mogadishu. This city’s middle name could as well be blood stained Al Shabaab!

Fast forward, we were ushered into an average sized office of the Amisom mouthpiece jovial Lt. Col. Paddy Ankunda.

It was evident in his eyes that he was happy to see people from home (Uganda), and of course we were familiar faces since he had worked with many of us during his tenure as UPDF spokesperson. His office is just within the Airport and is heavily guarded and surrounded by bankers.

“I was going to be disappointed if your visit had been cancelled,” he said, pointing to an earlier email sent postponing the trips. He later introduced to us two good Kenyan gentlemen who were to orient us. Patrick, and Ahmed, a Kenyan of Somali origin who were in charge of Information and technology and Administration respectively.

Ahmed took us around and showed us which rooms we were to use. I must say, granted that Somalia is acutely hot, the rooms we were offered to us were well built, fully installed with air conditioner.

Ankunda’s Brief

As soon as we were shown our modern mama njia pole (housing units), the mouthpiece took us through the security precautions.

Do you remember the banker where Iraq president Saddam Hussein was picked by the Americans? Well, Ankunda showed it to us, which he said could be of help to us.

“When you hear any attack, please rush here (banker), you will be safe,” the mouthpiece smiled yet it looked a serious warning. I tried keeping up appearance of a brave scribe even though my heart lisped.

“This ain’t a game man, it is a matter of life and death, a scribe from Namuwongo based Daily Monitor who was the most decorated coward whispered. As the rules of engagement were beginning to sink into our hearts, came another one. In case of meals, it was mandatory to move in a group, to avoid being mistaken and taken out by Amisom guys. What! On top of being threatened by the unpredictable Al Shabaab, we had to keep watch of our own boys?

Away from the briefing a feel of our stay was made a reality when we were given body armours. An ordinary person who has not worn the armour may think it is an ordinary bullet guard, but the thing weighs a damn 15km! And to complete the picture, one has to wear a protective gear which weighs a kilogramme. It was laughter and misery served in the same glass, as one of the journalist from the State owned media houses almost collapsed on the weight of the armour. Painfully dressed in the body armour, we were ushered into armoured vehicles, commonly called mambas.

[Somali philosopher]

Security

It is wishful thinking to say that even Mogadishu is completely pacified! The night and day would pass as uneventful if there were no sporadic gunshots.

During one of the tours we undertook to the Al Jazeera Military College for the Somalis, the visit was cancelled half way after unrelenting gunshots rocked the skies for close to 20 minutes. (This college will churn out 1000 soldiers per intake and over one hundred and ten units have been constructed for accommodation).

Military Guides Lt. Col. Ankunda and his aide Capt. Ronald Karukungu forced us back into the mambas because they were uncertain for what had befallen Mogadishu.

“Guys get back to the vehicles, we can’t be sure who is firing, get back guys,” Ankunda beckoned on us in an evidently anxious tone. At this point even the smallest of cameras became heavy to lift and we rushed back to our carriers; who was firing is something that up today we grapple with. The greatest fear was on the Yemenis who are the mercenaries, with a life as a backbone to the heartless Al Shabaab fighters.

A tale of our soldiers goes that these Yemenis are no ordinary fighters; they are snipers with guns so sophisticated that still a UN backed UPDF soldiers’ can’t afford.

“When their sniper takes you out, their guns take your pictures, as a means of accountability,” one of the commanders told us, and naturally some members in my company looked for the nearest place of convenience.

Meeting Lokech

If you meet Uganda‘s contingent commander aka Contigal Brig. Lokech, he would pass as tall, lanky handsome man, who wouldn’t harm even a fly. He spends every three of five minutes looking on the ground as to avoid eye contact. Okay, shyness is a disposition known to be a preserve of skirts chasers. Naturally, my heart wondered how a commander who has given Al Shabaab sleepless nights can be that shy!

It later dawned on me that if the commander was to be served as a meal, he is cocktail both amiable and a hard boiled nut of a man.

First he teased us, asking who misguided us that body armours would protect us from enemy fire.

“Who lied to you, I would think the best precaution when you hear a gun shoot is to take cover, not those armours you are wearing,” he said, in between a smile that could be interpreted as a sneer. Behind the smile lay a stern man who can’t negotiate with terrorists!

“ I believe in sending a terrorist to his grave. As a commander, if you asked me, I would tell you that I don’t believe in negotiations. I believe in killing these people because a terrorist is born,” Lokech offered a preamble to his battle hardened life.

With eyes betraying an emotional personality, Lokech revealed how he painfully fights to come to terms whenever his fighters are killed in the theatre.

However,something is unique about this man who is humiliating the terrorist; one moment, he is smiling in another he is very pissed. It seems every time the UN fails to expedite protocols causing loss of soldiers, Lokech feels like meeting these Geneva based Officials.

When asked about UPDF mandate, he wears a frown face and insists that the only thing left to get attacked are helicopters. From his face, it was evident that the operations in Somalia would be smoother if the UN didn’t play hide and seek with the kind of mandates they were giving Amisom; which in the end puts our forces to unprecedented vulnerability.

The Attack

When we reached Al Fitri, Col. Mugerwa informed us how information had been gathered on a planned onslaught on the UPDF and AMISOM camps both in that area and Afgoye. That Monday evening, President Sharif called Brig. Lokech asking to visit Afgoye- a militarily strategic place which had fallen into the hands of UPDF after a nasty battle which earned scores of casualties. Brig. Lokech was very hesitant to allow the President visit the place, since many cells of Al Shabaab were still operating in the area but in civilian attire. Knowing that it would be strategically important to harness morale among the residents and Transitional Federal Government (TFG) fighters, he changed his mind. He allowed Sharif to visit.

In order to show that they are not completely annihilated in Afgoye, the terrorist plotted to bump off the president. Fortunately, the UPDF had got wind of the attack and set a trap for the Al Shabaab. They let the president travel behind six mamba vehicles and when the terrorists saw an escort car, they started firing.

The soldiers guarding the president though had not been told of the attempt except asked to be vigilant since some cells were still active.

Because they were not fully organised, the terrorist fired light weapons although they forces TGF soldiers in first scamper looking for position.

What was evident though is that among the security detail, there was a plan on how to assault the Al Shabaab.

Actually the gun battle involved some guards of the president while Sharif was in a distance under the auspices of UPDF. This was a trap and it was obvious Al shabaab wouldnt make a mark.

According to military sources, the attackers were not more than thirty and that is why they were easily repulsed, leaving one TFG soldier dead and scores injured.

Afgoye Town

On reaching Afgoye, a purely agricultural town, many wept after realising that they had been liberated.

It is a reality that a bullet that can kill a civilian is the same bullet that can end a life of a military General.

A former commander of Land Forces in Saidi Barre Government wailed like a woman who had lost her baby. Confessing allegiance to Sharif, the commander said he craved for the old days when there was discipline in the army. “When I look at these young people moving around with guns, oblivious of what they are doing, all I can feel is self pity,” the commander said amidst sobs.

In show of a new life, a Governor of Afgoye shaved his long hair aftrer twenty years. He had vowed never to shave it until the day his town would liberated. At least he kept his word to his people!

Ray of hope on Mogadishu

Somalia, despite wasting 20 years in a senseless war, has amazingly sky line congested with good structures. Kampala will need 25 more than years to match the current dilapidated city of Al Fitri, which stands 12km outside Mogadishu. If Somalia had put the twenty years to use not war, because the natives are naturally entrepreneurs, it would be giving Johannesburg a run for its money.

By 1970, Somalia had a Namboole like stadium, and Uganda got hers at the end of 1999. This mega stadium was later used as the training ground for the terrorists. However, there is a ray of hope that is permeating on the soil of Somalia. The businesses are open and steadily there is reconstruction going on. Some of the biting issues are getting water, health and other social services. If you come from the great lakes region, you find it hard getting accosted to the water of Somalia. At a risk of attracting curses, at one point one would contemplate using mineral water, which was in abundance by the way, for bathing, but since the trip was to last a couple of days, we soldiered on .

In Kismayo Dr. Opiyo Odida, a civil affairs officer under AMISOM is busy commanding Somali casual labourers as they try to construct a school. It is a six block class room unit with capacity to accommodate 960 learners and employ 32 teachers. This school is planned to serve the internally displaced people (IDPs) who sit on a six mile stretch! “This project will consume a whopping $1.5m, which was offered by the Danish Government,” Dr. Ododa said.

Bonking and Soldier Life

To many, it would be a mistake for this tale to end without mentioning the shafting index of our gallant soldiers. UPDF needs no introduction in regards to fighting, but also in bonking babes of the foreign soil. In order to understand your enemy, according to Brig. Lokech, you must study their culture and our boys did that and mastered it well. Need I remind you of the many kids and Congolese women who trekked to Kampala in search for dudes that bonked them to cabbages? Our soldiers are standing and a testimony of heroes who have won the admiration of many Somalis. However, there is a something they haven’t found interesting behind the long dresses.

veragely many a UPDF soldier has desisted from shafting somali babes, reason – the babes don’t want condoms yet many have stds! This is what i gathered from casual chats with many of them. Some people may think soldiers live a reckless life therefore a condom is secondary given that life can be taken on a battle ground. But i am reproducing what i was told irrespective of the rational.

[The-freeman]

This writing is awful, I cannot believe it is written by anyone above secondary level of education though I have read Kenyan newspapers and their writers' grammar and spelling is not far off this article.

 

Second, though the writer seems to console his disappointment for the lack of UPDF soldiers "bonkin" (what an awful word) Somali women with nonsense about STDs and condoms- perhaps the real reason is no self respecting Somali women would consider a Ugandan as sexual partners, especially in Somalia. I imagine it would also be unacceptable to the family,the clan and the tribe. There is also religious interests to consider.

[Somali philosopher]

^^^ that is what I thought Somali women refused them so he tries to dis honor them. Ugandan acusin Somali of std, wow

[The-freeman]

Somali philosopher;848015 wrote:

^^^ that is what I thought Somali women refused them so he tries to dis honor them. Ugandan acusin Somali of std, wow

Also look how he compares Somali women to Congolese women, totally unaware the huge cultural differences between the two. The writer is an idi0t and a propagandist. Don't be troubled by it; it is made up stuff.

[burahadeer]

what a nonesense, std almost non existant in somalia comparing to otha african states.

[Yunis]

Reading it, this has been unnerving, nasty and poorly constructed piece. Poorly-written articles always are, and this one has been no exception. But, if you can grind it to the very end - this is classic 'liberator' anecdote on occupied lands.

 

The heroics of UPDF and commander Lokech as liberators:

Somali philosopher;847992 wrote:

If you meet Uganda‘s contingent commander aka Contigal Brig. Lokech, he would pass as tall, lanky handsome man, who wouldn’t harm even a fly. He spends every three of five minutes looking on the ground as to avoid eye contact. Okay, shyness is a disposition known to be a preserve of skirts chasers. Naturally, my heart wondered how a commander who has given Al Shabaab sleepless nights can be that shy!

Emphases on the weak and inept leadership of the occupied land, and 'liberator' being the only authority on the ground:

Somali philosopher;847992 wrote:

That Monday evening, President Sharif called Brig. Lokech asking to visit Afgoye- a militarily strategic place which had fallen into the hands of UPDF after a nasty battle which earned scores of casualties. Brig. Lokech was very hesitant to allow the President visit the place, since many cells of Al Shabaab were still operating in the area but in civilian attire.

The joyous occupied inhabitants welcoming the ‘liberator’ forces with flowers after freeing them from the claws of “evildoers”:

Somali philosopher;847992 wrote:

In show of a new life, a Governor of Afgoye shaved his long hair aftrer twenty years. He had vowed never to shave it until the day his town would liberated. At least he kept his word to his people!

Finally, the African author beats western propaganda standards on liberator’s spoils by Insulting occupied women and their honor:

Somali philosopher;847992 wrote:

veragely many a UPDF soldier has desisted from shafting somali babes, reason – the babes don’t want condoms yet many have stds! This is what i gathered from casual chats with many of them.

[Valenteenah.]

Yunis, yes, it's very sensationalist.

[Somali philosopher]

This is the feel you get from most articles written by Ugandan n Kenyan so called journalists. It seems they have found a foreign element, pride

[burahadeer]

^^ yes they found pretty cushitic princesses under their feet! they can't believe!

[Mario B]

This is what happens to your country when you decide to fight for your clan supremacy!

[Miskiin-Macruuf-Aqiyaar]

Ninkaan yaa saan loogu harin. He deserves a timely reply. I was looking for his email, couldn't find one. However, he is on Facebook. I am this very tempted u diro a piece of my mind. That last paragraph sinaba looguma hari karo and I would have missed it because I couldn't finish his amateurish writing. Then I saw what was quoted in this thread.

[The-freeman]

Miskiin-Macruuf-Aqiyaar;848304 wrote:

Ninkaan yaa saan loogu harin. He deserves a timely reply. I was looking for his email, couldn't find one. However, he is on Facebook. I am this very tempted u diro a piece of my mind. That last paragraph sinaba looguma hari karo and I would have missed it because I couldn't finish his amateurish writing. Then I saw what was quoted in this thread.

 

Good idea!

[Somali philosopher]

a response might encourage him to write even more garbage like this. it would validate his journalism.

valenteenah was right. sensationalist.