Midnight at the beach, Mogadishu is rising.

[galbeedi]

 

As the plane approaches from the south west side of the runway, you will notice the waves of the majestic Indian Ocean,  and if you are coming to Mogadishu for the first time after a long time, like me,  you would feel  goosebumps, especially now considering the Ethiopian plans to take part of the Somali ocean. The weather was beautiful with the usual blue sky and unusually humid day in February. Back in the days, February used to be windy and rainy (Xagaayo), but nowadays it is hot like summer. I thought since Mogadishu is on the northern side of the equator, this time of year would be winter, yey it is humid and everyone is saying that it will be even warmer in March. Back then the Luuq and Gedo area was hot in February. I am recording 35-38C degrees Celsius.

 

As we landed to airport, we were met by members of both houses of parliament, ministers, some members of Awdal community in Mogadishu including officers, women, elders and youth. While in diaspora, there is an impression of fortified security bunker and militarized airport., yet we met the welcoming party just across the runway including  the dance troupe of Banaadir. If you are welcomed by the " Shiribkii Muqdishu" it means you are at home and maybe little bit important. We were escorted to the VIP to address the media with the presence of the dignitaries. Among the notables were minister Bidhaan of the ministry of communications, Xildhibaans Ayuu Ismail who is a rising star in our community, Sheikh Mohamed Huseen Hadi, Senators Deqa Hassan, Cabdi Qaybdiid and many others. Entering the VIP and intermingling among the people, we felt at home and at ease. There was a feeling that despite where we originated, this was our national capital and the seat of the government where Somalis are welcome.

 

 

After the announcement we headed to the parking lot and rode the bulletproof vehicles to our hotel. The biggest surprise and the most shocking thing was how business and residential buildings were erected just a few meters from the gates of the airport. I told our hosts " who made this possible? who authorized  to build for profit residential buildings just across the airport?. In fact, a man could throw a grenade from the rooftops of the buildings and hit the parking lot or even the entrance gates. This is pure anarchy and greed that couldn't be possible anywhere in the world. I think the Somali government must plan very quickly another international airport outside these residential areas and relocate to probably Kaaraan and far away from crowds.

 

As you leave the airport, the exit streets become narrower and passing vehicles have to alternate and every open space is occupied. We went through the Affezione route escorted by armed guards. When you reach the Xamar Weyne area the checkpoints are less than a kilometer apart. Regardless of who is riding with you or how many soldiers are escorting you, the young men manning the check points must identify the Xildhibaan and the security men. The street checkpoints are dominated by NISA soldiers who seem to know one another. Certain areas of the city where government buildings are located, only pre inspected cars could pass and public transit vehicles are prohibited.As per the rules, escorting soldiers are not allowed to enter major hotels with guns  and must stay out of the area.

 

As you travel through Xamar Weyne, Shibis and Abdelaziz you notice the destroyed buildings that were left vacant and other places owned by people who left long ago and never came back. In fact, a large part of this former downtown Mogadishu is ruined waiting either for the rule of law to reclaim or in disputes among those who inherited. These parts of Shibis and Abdulaziiz are waiting for their real owner or their children who are in diaspora. Many of them have refused the offer to sell. On the other hand Baar Ubax and other areas are either bought or taken by others. In terms of business, the booming part of the city is mostly inhabited by those who originally hail from Galmudug, but that doesn't mean there are no native people of  Banadir from Galmudug. From most Somalis, it is easy to get along, do business and live in the Galmudug part of the city. North Mogadishu is either localized or waiting for government stability to rebuild the ruined buildings and thrive again.

 

Despite the checkpointed and ruined buildings, the Mogadishu streets are well paved with wide open  boulevards that could accommodate two lane streets on both sides. THere are some makeshift businesses that occupy Jubba hotel sidewalks, but most of the streets are wide and clean. Few days ago I took a Bajaaj and ventured to see the old Mogadishu. You can't just holed up in a big hotel, ride bullet proof cars and later claim you saw Mogadishu. The area I was venturing was mostly safe.

 

Midnight at the beech

 

I went to Cabdiaziiz just before you reached Kaaraan, passed through  the old Stadio Konis and went to Liido beach. The Indian Ocean has retreated about 100 meters and you could pass the fishing boats in  the middle of the sand.The young boys are playing soccer, the blue flagged tour boat is sitting at shore to take passengers for a ride.  A week ago, I went for dinner at one of the beach hotels that entertained the diaspora with Somali Music. The most amazing thing is the presence of regular people at the beach at midnight. The sessionist entity closes down Hargeisa city around 11PM due to fear of many things. In these parts of the town, the  population is scarce due to closed roads and tight security protocols, but the  resilient people of Mogadishu are enjoying their beach at midnight without fear, and I hope with the blessing of Allah the peaceful atmosphere continues.

 

New security protocols improve safety.

The threat of Al-shabaab bombing, shooting or targeted killings didn't disappear totally yet, but has diminished extensively through the city. Security controlled zones of the  government agencies and surrounding areas have improved a lot. Months have passed without bombing or major incidents. Locals will tell you that they haven't felt this since 2005 during the Islamic courts.

Reorganized NISA had improved security.

 

Our sage resident here in SOL,  Mr. MMA,  calls the NISA director Mohad Salaad,  Mahad Qalaaye, but that is much further from the reality on the ground. While the security, military and foreign policy of Nabad iyo Nolol targeted for the long term and achieved institutional gains, political disruption, weak decision making and other bakagges they were carrying, made it difficult to tackle the security issues in a comprehensive way, especially the last two years of the election pickering.. It is given that every government starting from 2012 has contributed capacity building and enhancing security. When I asked NISA officers about the increased safety, absence of bombings for months, and almost  the elimination of the targeted killings in Mogadishu, they attributed four or five major moves NISA and the government made in the last 12 months.  

 Here are the main reasons:

1-The war of Al-shbaab declared by the president and his government.

 

While the Al-shbaab cells within Mogadishu are still present, most of the bombings and other deadly operations are usually organized outside the capital. The big government offensive in Hiiraan, Middle Shabeelle and Lower Shabeele had put enormous pressure on the militants and could no longer allow them to organize missions to the capital. American drones are active in most Al-shabaab regions and hunt their leadership which in turn forces them to hide and feel the pressure. If the Americans sustain these pressures and don't change the course as they usually do, a great success could be achieved in the future.

 

2- Professional NISA youth with the latest technology.

 

NISA officers were trained and equipped by the Farmaajo government and deployed throughout  the city. The current government increased their numbers and prioritized their deployment in a localized and efficient way. For example, major government seats and agencies have been secured with almost zero risks. CCTV cameras are deployed in the most sensitive area and are monitored 24 hours. Previously , Al-shbaab had targeted these cameras to disable them and conceal their movements. We were standing , at night, in one of the major areas of security controls for a few minutes and suddenly a young officer came and asked us what we were doing and ordered us to move. Now these cameras have been deployed even Suuqa Bakaaraha. Movements of the vehicles in these exclusive green zones are monitored with checkpoints every half mile. If one officer misses or misidentifies a vehicle the next stop will stop and verify. If you carry a plastic bag while you walk in these areas, it will be checked. While at the end military forces are needed to eliminate the extremists for good, in big cities, it is all about law enforcement, efficient investigating teams and technology which may determine peaceful Mogadishu and other major centers.

 

These cameras are monitored 24/7 on every intersection of the city. I have met some of the young officers who just  finished their shift early in the morning and they were very enthusiastic about their jobs and the public service they were doing. There are special enhanced cameras targeted to record license plates with alarms that will sound if certain cars,  motorbikes or  Bajaj passes. If a motorbike commits a crime in Ceelasha Biyaha and the plate number is communicated, the alarm of the camera deployed in a dozen areas will go off and the bike will be arrested. Just this week, a four member cell of Al-shbaab had killed a soldier and immediately a group of undercover officers alerted others and captured them outside the city in Garasbaley.

 

3- Impersonating officers have been eliminated.

 

Major Al-shbaab operations were conducted in big hotels, government ministries, parliaments and other protected areas before with deadly results which combined car bombing and storming of these buildings. Impersonation of NISA officers or members of local military by the militants had made it possible for them to kill many innocent people and target high value government members. There used to be even deadly clashes among different forces within the city. That was totally eliminated.

 

For the last few weeks, I have seen pickup trucks full of soldiers approaching checkpoints and every time they were stopped and verified with almost zero exceptions. Furthermore, most of the VIP escorts are members of the NISA assigned to members of parliament and others and are know one another. Security officers are no longer allowed to carry their guns in public or ride public transit while carrying a gun. A disgruntled or cash hungry soldier used to stop Bajaaj for bribes and if they refused , he used to shoot them . These incidents were regular before. Now the officer must leave his gun and uniform at the checkpoints or place of work after his shift is finished. No soldier is allowed to carry a gun without a duty.

 

4- Incoming traffic to the capital is manned and monitored.

 

No bomb laden truck or car has entered Mogadishu for the last 12 months thanks to enhanced entry points. These entry points from Lower Shabbelle and middle Shabeelle are exclusive priority for the capital. The first step taken by Mahad Salaad leadership was to replace the police officers with NISA officers and increase their salary. Before soldiers were easily bribed and the consequences were  deadly bombings. Now the officers draw their salary both from NISA and benefits from the Banaadir regional government. Enhanced camera and undercover officers on top of the guarding officers monitor these entry points and every vehicle is checked thoroughly.

 

5--Mahad Salaad is different from Fahad Yaasiin.

 

Everyone will tell you that Fahad Yaasiin was a very able man who has improved NISA and made it one of the most organized security agencies in the region. Also, it was Fahad who reduced targeted killings in the capital by deploying undercover officers.  yet his oversized presence within the government didn't allow him to be on top of the security agenda. People in Mogadishu used to call him "Mulkiilaha Dawlad" which means the king behind the Farmaajo's throne.

 

Mahad Salaad has a great advantage compared to Fahad. He never left the capital for all these years and is much familiar with the environment compared to Fahad. I came to realize that someone from the diaspora needs at least 5 years to understand the Mogadishu quagmire and Al-Shbaab security challenges. Also, unlike Fahad, Mr. Salaad isn't involved with  internal government politics or foreign policy, he is exclusively concentrated with national security and particularly the security of the capital. He visits the security monitoring cameras in the middle of the night and dispatches teams by himself. That is the information I am getting from the security officers who hail from different parts of the country. Fahad was taking part in running the government, but Mahad Salaad is concentrating the security issue exclusively and the result is peaceful city. Furthermore, the number of officers were increased.

 

6- Freezing Al-shbaab accounts.

 

By far, this is the most important move the current government had made last year. In these pages we have discussed how millions are laundered through electronic banking and Hawalas. Anyone was able to send thousands of dollars unanimously to every part of the country. Members of Al-shbaab had accounts everywhere including banks. THere was a huge debate to pass these legislations through the parliament and many businesses who have connections with Al-Shabaab had  fought tooth and nail to prevent it. After the passing of that law , the government had frozen thousands of these accounts owned by the terrorist group. Big accounts with millions of dollars were frozen just a few months ago and some of them applied great pressure to the government to keep them , but they were finally frozen.

 

To build a car bomb takes tens of thousands of dollars. Soldiers and officers must be bribed with tens of thousands of dollars, a brand new car that no one suspects must be bought with at least $20,000 of dollars and other logistical needs which might reach up to hundred thousand dollars. Al-shabaab was described as the richest terrorist group in the world due to their money collected through extortions and intimidations. Many businesses have refused to pay the extortion money and the government encouraged them to have cameras in their businesses to record those who collect the evil taxes. People will tell you that by far the freezing of the accounts (Qalajinta Hantida) is the biggest move that eliminated car bombs and other deadly actions by the extremists.

 

If these gains are sustained and businesses corporate and refuse to pay extortion money, Al-shbaab threat could be reduced in the long run.

 

Now, how about life in Mogadishu? I mean about the regular Somali?

Mogadishu used to be called 50 years ago " Maskiin Koriso"{...... stay for the next article................

 

[Illyria]

Very much reflections of what I would expect from a bloody foreigner on a hushed visitation to a war zone marinated with a toss of mislaid Somalinimo flavour to balm chapped cavities of the forlorn diaspora hordes.

Take you seriously, I shall not, till you have taken a crowded bus, with tiny seats not fit for a tall, burly gentleman of a certain age, from Adam Adde airport, paid the $5 fee to stride to the taxi rack, fight your way through rows of poor beggars to find a taxi or a bajaj to your destination; then at dawn, take a stroll through Bakaraha market for a homely breakfast in one of the low end shacks-turned-restaurants competing fresh "laxoox / canjeelo" flying off the pan with builders / workers in the morning rush, and get a sodden whiff of the rubbish, from the day before, still stacked up in the streets. With that, you would be a local lad back at home.

But with you fancy bulletproof limo, VIP reception, backdoor exit to the city, and trotting between blue beaches and fancy hotels, mate, you are a bloody foreigner on tour.

Now, tell me, is Awdal safe? Is Lughaya secure? Is Ceel Sheekh off limits?

[galbeedi]

54 minutes ago, Illyria said:

Now, tell me, is Awdal safe? Is Lughaya secure? Is Ceel Sheekh off limits?

Certainly not. HSM isn't doing much on Awdal side. Yes, he did the Turkiye defense pact  which is a great move, but he has done nothing so far to challenge the separatists in Hargeisa. With HSM at helm, Biixi can breath easily. He keeps talking about Abiy and his disastrous plans, yet so far he is unwilling to say anything negative. His government is dominated by separatists, heck he even appointed another three or four of them for the last four weeks. Secession talk and boasting of Biixi and company is possible because of the leadership here in Mogadishu. Dalka Muqdisho Ayaa laga Goynayaa. 

1 hour ago, Illyria said:

from Adam Adde airport, paid the $5 fee to stride to the taxi rack, fight your way through rows of poor beggars to find a taxi or a bajaj to your destination; then at dawn, take a stroll through Bakaraha market for a homely breakfast in one of the low end shacks-turned-restaurants competing fresh "laxoox / canjeelo" flying off the pan

I have to take a dictionary to understand the first paragraph.

I agree about the ride to the airport. While I was passing the checkpoints escorted by security Thursday while picking up VIP, I saw the public line up and wait for a long time to reach the airport. Of course I am traveling like an outsider , but that doesn't mean you couldn't feel the the real people.

For example, last night I walked about a kilometer and saw small restaurant selling Malawax/ Canjeero and I went in. I wasn't hungry, but wanted to check  the price fell comfortable among my people. I ate two Malawax each one was 50 cents which isn't bad. If you could get a full stomach for $1.50 isn't bad for a poor guy.

I walked the streets of Addis Ababa and I saw a thousand beggars everywhere . Yes, there are poor people, but Mogadishu had always a tradition of people working hard and I do believe that culture is still there. If peace prevails even a year or two, I have no doubt this city could be better than many places who were peaceful for 35 years including the stinking Addis.

Give me a few days, I will be traveling to Bakaraha, Waaberi and Wardhiigley and report back.

[galbeedi]

Yesterday was Friday and Liido beach was full of people. Men, women, children and people from all walks of life were there. You don't have to be middle class or rich to enjoy the beach. It is public.

[Illyria]

 

1 hour ago, galbeedi said:

For example, last night I walked about a kilometer and saw small restaurant selling Malawax/ Canjeero and I went in. I wasn't hungry, but wanted to check  the price fell comfortable among my people. I ate two Malawax each one was 50 cents which isn't bad. If you could get a full stomach for $1.50 isn't bad for a poor guy.

[ ...]

Give me a few days, I will be traveling to Bakaraha, Waaberi and Wardhiigley and report back.

Good man, now you are talking like a native. Enjoy, and do visit the schools and universities, listen to their stories, desires and aspirations. To enjoy the city, warts and all, break bread with the locals, and DO avoid regular haunts by the bourgeois wanna bees and diaspora.

1 hour ago, galbeedi said:

He keeps talking about Abiy and his disastrous plans, yet so far he is unwilling to say anything negative. His government is dominated by separatists, heck he even appointed another three or four of them for the last four weeks. Secession talk and boasting of Biixi and company is possible because of the leadership here in Mogadishu. Dalka Muqdisho Ayaa laga Goynayaa.

Yes, Xasan is just a wastrel weakling devoid of wisdom.

[Che -Guevara]

Galbeedi,

Ethiopian infantry and mechanized divisions are being amassed from Awdal to Galgaduud. HSM did nothing tangible as expected, what's Awdal's next move?

[Xaaji Xunjuf]

11 minutes ago, Che -Guevara said:

Galbeedi,

Ethiopian infantry and mechanized divisions are being amassed from Awdal to Galgaduud. HSM did nothing tangible as expected, what's Awdal's next move?

the only thing the Awdal commmunity can do is  start mutiny and defect from the SL army and join a rebellion and make it unsafe for  the Ethiopians i dont see no other option and just to sabotage the Ehtiopians  their stay in Somaliland , this will make them re think and re evaulate and go back. 

[galbeedi]

45 minutes ago, Che -Guevara said:

what's Awdal's next move?

We already had plan B and C. We were invited for the inauguration of C/laahi Dani with full tickets and accomodations in Garoowe, but we were advised to go to Mogadishu first before going anywhere else. Khaatumo is waiting for us and we have other plans. We must find places to train our forces and we will find.

Xaaji I like your idea of our soldiers leaving the Hargeisa project.

[Che -Guevara]

1 hour ago, galbeedi said:

We already had plan B and C. We were invited for the inauguration of C/laahi Dani with full tickets and accomodations in Garoowe, but we were advised to go to Mogadishu first before going anywhere else. Khaatumo is waiting for us and we have other plans. We must find places to train our forces and we will find.

Xaaji I like your idea of our soldiers leaving the Hargeisa project.

Reer Awdal should start appealing to the broader Somali population. 

[Che -Guevara]

2 hours ago, Xaaji Xunjuf said:

the only thing the Awdal commmunity can do is  start mutiny and defect from the SL army and join a rebellion and make it unsafe for  the Ethiopians i dont see no other option and just to sabotage the Ehtiopians  their stay in Somaliland , this will make them re think and re evaulate and go back. 

Xaaji, who will you side with if there's a war between reer Awdal, and Habashi/Bixiye?

[Miskiin-Macruuf-Aqiyaar]

Galbeedi, maqaayadaan tag. Karmeel la dhahaa, Digfeer agteeda ku taalaa.

Alaabtaana soo cun.

[Miskiin-Macruuf-Aqiyaar]

Sidoo kale booqo Guryasamo oo u dhow garoonka Koonis aad sheegtay. Pizza House iyadana soo fiiri. Dolphin korkiisana xeebta Liido ka soo fiirso adigoo casariya cabaayo. Maqaayadda kale Alcaasimaya jidka Maka Almakurama saaran tag iyadana.

Maqaayadahaan dhan waa wada cusbaayeen markaa Xamar tagaaye sanadkii 2019.

[galbeedi]

MMA, 

Saaxiib I like Casariye, but I am not a food person. These fancy’shotels got generic  foods  like steak , fish and maybe some Soor. I want to go a regular place and have Muufo iyo Maraq and the taste of Canjeero and Saliid Macsaro. . I might go to Gobson at Liido though 
 

People will tell you the more you go Deep South the cost of living is lower. . Hargeisa is probably the most expensive p’ace

[Arafaat]

1 hour ago, galbeedi said:

MMA, 

Saaxiib I like Casariye, but I am not a food person. These fancy’shotels got generic  foods  like steak , fish and maybe some Soor. I want to go a regular place and have Muufo iyo Maraq and the taste of Canjeero and Saliid Macsaro. . I might go to Gobson at Liido though 
 

People will tell you the more you go Deep South the cost of living is lower. . Hargeisa is probably the most expensive p’ace

Go to ‘Lama Xamar’ restaurant in Xamarweyne, kasoo horjeedka gobolka. 

[Dhagax-Tuur]

Reerka maa u yeeray? Part of the kacdoonka in awdal.